Hey that’s super interesting! I started started my surfing journey when my mum took me bodyboarding, I then moved toward surfing after a few years. Surfing is a huge part of my life mentally and physically. Physically, It has led me to learn one of the meanings of my life, being, what my human body is capable of. Everything I do is working towards a goal of breaking the limits of my body, whether that is numbers in the gym, altitude of mountains, size of waves, distances ran, etc. mentally, surfing is an escape. It is a time in the day where I can think clearly, relaxed, and when I feel overwhelmed about anything, surfing allows me to clear my head. I believe everyone should find something that allows them to find complete peace, for me, that’s surfing 😁